We’d stepped off into greatness, we had. Straight off the plane, the swell was roaring. Eight feet, ten feet, twelve feet. Just epic. Big boards at Padang. No more EPS at the points I told myself as the Bill Johnson chattered off the bottom at Dang-Dang. Fun boards at Dreamland. Left-hand racers, and beers, and a beautiful Polish woman and noodles make that place heaven.
